May 13, 2018
Before coming to Scotland I was all about that caffeine. People knew me for being obsessed with coffee and instead of carrying around a bottle of water I was always the one with a thermo cup in my hand. We can talk about the various health issues connected to that another time, but fact is, that this habit of mine drastically changed once I arrived to Edinburgh.
Here, I was introduced to the glorious concept of “afternoon tea” which completely turned my world upside down. Only a few weeks into my exchange semester I’ve already started drinking more tea than coffee – which was partly also because we didn’t have a proper coffee machine at our place. But most of all, it just fitted the entire lifestyle here. It’s like sipping an espresso out of a tiny white cup somewhere in Milan, here you gather in he midafternoon to indulge in savoury and sweet snacks while keeping that hot tea coming.
I made it a personal mission of mine to test various places and now, at nearly the end of the semester, I can proudly say that I’ve found my top 3 spots for all – high, medium and low – budgets.
Low budget (5₤)
Clarinda’s tea room
I found out about this place pretty early this semester when a friend of mine suggested to have tea there. The ambience makes you feel like you’re sitting in your grandma’s living room: flower tapestries, plates hanging on the walls, black and white photos everywhere… It’s just lovely.
One of the highlights has got to be the old wooden dessert desk which is basically also the first thing you see when you walk in. There’s no walking by without drooling over the delicious cakes and scones. (see photo)
A Pot of tea costs roughly 2.50₤ and a scone with jam and cream to that only adds around 2₤ more… so for only 5₤ you can spend a lovely time at Clarinda’s and even though it’s not the full afternoon tea experience (you know, with sandwiches and all) you will not regret popping by for a short break. It’s no doubt one of my all time favorites in this city!
(No reservations taken)
Medium budget (20₤)
The Café at the Palace
By “palace” they mean Holyrood Palace at the bottom of Royal Mile, where the queen still resides every summer. When my friends and I decided to visit it (palace & gardens entrance is about 12₤) we timed it in a way so that we would get out just in time for afternoon tea. There’s a cute place right inside the court which offers a variety of sweets and snacks along with the full AT-option for only 19₤.
However, there’s only one downside: the inside seating is not really welcoming, at least it wasn’t according to us. For a palace café it was pretty naked and didn’t have much character to it – as opposed to Clarinda’s, for example.
BUT! We were lucky and picked a sunny day for our visit which is why we were able to sit on their terrace on the back, from which you have a gorgeous view of Arthur’s Seat. So if you’re visiting during a warmer season, you should definitely opt for that!
On a good note: they are very flexible with dietary restrictions. One of our friends is vegetarian and can’t eat eggs either and they made no big fuzz about it and simply exchanged some food items with other deliciousnesses. The staff was also extremely friendly which made this day into an even more wonderful memory.
(Reservations can be made but are not really necessary.)
High budget (40₤)
“The Palm Court” of Balmoral Hotel
I don’t even know where to start here. The Balmoral is no doubt one of the most luxurious Hotels in Edinburgh and somewhat of an institution with it’s incredible architecture and the impressive clock tower overlooking the whole town. So it’s probably no surprise that their afternoon tea is one of the most decadent experiences I have ever had.
The Palm Court is situated in the heart of the hotel, underneath a glass dome, and a Harpist is playing on a tiny balcony while you get pampered by the staff. By the way, here too they ask about dietary restrictions/allergies first things first!
My advice: don’t eat lunch that day. The food there is plenty and so filling that even after my third time of going there with an empty stomach (yup, that’s how much I love it hehe) I still had to get some pastries packed up to take them home.
The price is 40₤ and includes as much tea/coffee as you want, the 4 courses (if you can call it that) and a small surprise in the end, including a package of tea and biscuits to take home as a memory.
(Definitely make a reservation beforehand!)
